A Trio of Salads: Potato, Shrimp, and Spring Lettuces

While the other side of the world is tucking into autumnal salads, we’re just beginning our season of summer ones. Memorial Day weekend brought along with it some sultry weather, calling for something cool and thrown together with a minimum of fuss. We’re still mining the end of our stores, freshened by additions from the garden. The last of the storage potatoes and freezer peas were gussied up with handfuls of green onions, and a harvest of asparagus paired perfectly with some Northern shrimp, with both dishes finished with a shower of flavorful herbs. A green salad tossed with translucent slices of crispy radishes, and a glass of chilled rosé rounded out this first of many summery meals to come.

Potato and Pea Salad with Green Onions and Mint

2 pounds red fingerling potatoes, steamed and cut crosswise into thin slices
2 cups shelled peas, blanched
1/3 cup good olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoon grainy mustard
1 to 2 shallots, minced
3 to 6 spring onions, cut into thin slices
1/2 cup mint leaves, cut into chiffonade

– Plunk the cooked potatoes and peas in a large bowl. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, mustard and shallots to make a dressing, adding salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Add enough dressing to the potatoes and peas to coat, and toss together with the spring onions and mint. Adjust seasonings, adding more olive oil, lemon juice and mustard as necessary. Best when left at room temperature and served the same day.

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Northern Shrimp and Asparagus Salad with Lemon and Basil

1 pound peeled Northern shrimp
Large handful of asparagus spears
Grated zest and juice from 1 organic lemon
1/4 cup good olive oil
1 tablespoon creme fraiche
2 tablespoons minced cutting celery (leaves and thinner stalks)
1/4 cup basil leaves, cut into chiffonade

– Poach the shrimp for less than a minute, drain, and rinse briefly with cold water to stop cooking. Transfer shrimp to a large bowl. Take the asparagus and break off their woody ends, and either steam or roast until barely tender. When cool enough to handle, slice crosswise into thick rounds. Add the cooked asparagus to the shrimp. Whisk together the grated zest, lemon juice, olive oil and creme fraiche. Pour enough dressing over the shrimp and asparagus to coat, and toss together with the celery, basil, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Local ingredients: Fingerling potatoes from Heron Pond Farm; shallots and peas from Meadow’s Mirth; Northern shrimp from the F/V Rimrack; asparagus, mesclun, arugula, green onion, cutting celery, and herbs from the garden.

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5.29.12 New beginnings: Hazelbert and ginger

Gardening is sometimes a leap of faith. I’d ordered a pair of hazelberts, and received what appeared to be two sticks with some roots attached. Described as “bare root,” I stuck them in a couple of pots (above), crossed my fingers, and hoped for the best.

A month later, and patience rewarded — the sticks are now showing signs of new growth. My fingers, however, remain crossed.

A friend had also given me a piece off his ginger plant to root, and I was thrilled to see that it’s also showing signs of life. Many thanks to Daphne’s crew of gardeners who gather each Monday to share their harvests and harvests-to-be, including their own experiments with growing ginger.

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5.28.12 Glorious greens

We’re enjoying eating from the garden again. Mesclun mixes and arugula are thriving in the cool, damp weather. 

Siberian and Red Russian Kales are also establishing well, and should provide us with cooking greens all season.

  

It’s time to remove the cold frames and thin out the greens. We don’t know if it’s due to the seaweed mulch, but no problems with of slugs so far.

We planted two types of cime di rapa side by side — the Quarantina (top half) produced flower heads and has a deeper, more mustardy flavor than the milder, flowerless Spring Raab (bottom half).

The winter kales and chard were cleared out to make room for new plantings, just in time for Memorial Day. With a little sun, the peas (to the rear) have resumed growing.

One last harvest of kale flowers and florets.

A harvest of Cime di Rapa Quarantina to have with orecchiette for dinner.

Kale thinnings gathered and saved for another meal.

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No-Knead Pizza with Kale

While most view the approach of Memorial Day weekend as a time to prime the grill, we see it as a signal to uncover our outdoor clay oven (here and here). It’s just a bitty thing, not unlike a wood-fired version of an Easy Bake Oven. However, this being New England, the weather’s been less than cooperative to get it going. Still, ever in search of the perfect pizza crust, I wanted to give Jim Lahey’s no-knead version of pizza dough a try. The recipe in its entirety can be found at Food52, complete with slideshow. If you’ve ever made his no-knead bread, you’ll find this is even easier and, with little forethought, you’ll never have to rely on store-bought dough again.

The recipe makes enough for 4 pizzas — the first we topped with goat cheese, roasted cherry tomatoes and basil; the second with mozzarella, green onions and bacon; the third with mozzarella and kale; and the fourth as dealer’s choice, a mix of what remained. The pizza with kale was inspired by last week’s pasta version, and the lemony notes of the salad mix made it our new favorite, elevating it far beyond its abstemious-sounding name.

With a small batch of the kale salad dressed and at the ready, we topped a round of dough with a layer of shredded mozzarella and a thin scattering of some of the kale mixture, reserving the rest. Once the pizza was done baking, we finished it with another layer of kale salad. The heat of the pizza will wilt it slightly, but not enough that the kale loses its freshness, a welcome contrast to the blistery crust. The only improvement would be to bake it in the wood-fired oven, for which we await the weather to clear.

Recipe for Jim Lahey’s No-Knead Pizza Dough >

Recipe for Kale with Ricotta Salata >

Local ingredients: Mozzarella from Maplebrook; goat cheese homemade from Jesta Farm goat’s milk; tomatoes from Stout Oak Farm; bacon from New Roots Farm; kale, basil and green onions from the garden.

YeastSpotted 6.1.12

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Pasta by Hand: A Lesson in Slow Food

If you’re in the area, I’ll be teaching a pasta-making class for Slow Food Seacoast on Sunday, June 3rd, at Strawbery Banke Museum’s Stoodley Tavern in Portsmouth, NH. To join us for this hands-on workshop, Pasta by Hand: A Lesson in Slow Food, visit www.slowfoodseacoast.org for more details and registration. If you can’t make it to the workshop, come for the Sunday Potluck Dinner following the workshop!

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5.21.12 First harvests: Radishes and rhubarb

Our first harvest of radishes for the season, planted with three-year-old seed, surprisingly still viable. 

A couple of sunny days have given the rhubarb a boost, and we were finally able to harvest some for a galette, along with field-grown lupines for a kitchen bouquet.

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5.19.12 Backyard mushrooms

This month’s rains delivered an unexpected crop of shiitake on logs we’d given up as spent. More on growing these mushrooms can be found in the archives, here and here.

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