Diary of a Tomato

After the whirlwind of touring Iceland’s Golden Circle, we settled in for a more leisurely pace. We breakfasted near our hotel at the comfy C is for Cookie, and sampled pönnukökur, Icelandic pancakes similar to crepes. One choice is to eat them folded up with jam and whipped cream; another is rolled (above), with a sprinkling of sugar inside.

Though is was drizzly, central Reykjavik is walkable enough that it wasn’t a hinderance getting around by foot. We headed for the National Museum of Iceland to fill in our utter lack of knowledge of Icelandic history.

The National Museum houses a handsome collection of objects, such as this prize artifact, the Valþjófsstaður door (above), depicting a knight slaying a dragon. The well-designed exhibits trace the settlement of Iceland, beginning with the arrival of the Norse Vikings in the 800’s, and continuing up to the present.

 As we entered the first hall, we encountered the outline of a boat sketched into the floor by a string of lights. Standing within its boundary, we’re struck by its smallness, and try to imagine what the settlers carried with them to survive the first winter in such a rugged place. Above: Agricultural tools, including a sickle, scythe, and a whetstone made of lava rock.

Written materials attest to early literacy, document Icelandic history, and preserve their cultural heritage. Landnámabók, or The Book of Settlements, describes the settlement of Iceland by the Norse in the 9th and 10th centuries.

A slice of earth showing the frequency of volcanic eruptions (above, left), and volcanic rocks used as counterweights in a weaving loom (right).

These two carved boards depict a mermaid that has seized a man, and, below that, a man fighting a monster in the form of a dragon gripping a human head in its jaws.

A drawing of branches, also known as Aaron’s Rod (above, left), protects against evil spirits. The purpose of the carved mask (right) is unknown.

A special exhibition on Icelandic silver work commemorates the National Museum’s 150th birthday. This hanging (above) displays a collection of silver cane tips.

Our brains stuffed with as much Icelandic history as they could hold, we were ready for a lunch break at Sægreifinn, or The Sea Baron, down by the old harbor. As the name implies, this casual stand features seafood, with the day’s choices displayed in  open refrigerated cases, including the ubiquitous pitchers of Icelandic water.

Harðfiskur (above), dried fish, is ready to eat, direct from the package. We were advised it’s best enjoyed spread with a little butter. Note the array of condiments on the lower shelf, including squeeze bottles of sweet mustard.

The Sea Baron’s specialties: Lobster soup (above, left), another name for langoustines; and a grilled kabob of fresh plaice, a local flatfish. Afterwards, we had just enough room to take in Reykjavik 871+/-2 The Settlement Exhibition. The name of this archaeological site refers to the dating of wall fragments found there, the oldest relics of human habitation in Reykjavik. 

We ended the day at Micro Bar, billed as the only micro brewery bar in Iceland and a more recent cultural phenomenon. As part of prohibition in Iceland, beer was banned from 1915 to 1989. Though we’re several months too late, we raised a glass to Beer Day, Iceland’s annual celebration in March of the ban’s lifting.

Resources
• C is for Cookie
• Þjóðminjasafn Íslands – The National Museum of Iceland
• Sægreifinn – The Sea Baron
• Reykjavik 871+/-2 The Settlement Exhibition
• Micro Bar
• Reykjavik, Part 1: Icelandic Daze
• Reykjavik, Part 2: The Golden Circle
• Reykjavik, Part 4: Cod Wars and Hot Dogs

Sometimes you just have to give in, be a tourist, do touristy things, and go sightseeing.

With continued brilliant weather ahead, we hopped on the popular excursion known as the Golden Circle. From coastal Reykjavik, the day-long bus tour travels inland to visit such historical and natural sites as Þingvellir National Park, the Gullfoss (“golden falls”) waterfall, the geothermal area of Geysir, with its more active neighbor, Strokkur.

The route passes through a part of Iceland where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. It’s the shifting of  these plates, as tectonic things tend to do, that accounts for much of the country’s rugged terrain, built up through years of volcanic activity. As unusual as the landscape is, there’s also something familiar about it, reminiscent of Hawaii’s volcanic lava fields, Yes album covers, and Tolkien’s The Hobbit.

In the midst of Þingvellir National Park, sits Alþingi (above), the original home of Icelandic parliament. Established in 930 AD, this seemingly isolated site played a prominent role in Icelandic history, serving as a cultural as well as political center, and is now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This water-filled rift (above, left) is called Nikulásargjá, but is better known as Peningagjá, or coin fissure, for the coins thrown from the bridge built for the King of Denmark in 1907. 

Next on the tour is Gullfoss (above); the trail to the left of the waterfall gives a sense of the enormous scale of this spectacular series of cascading drops.

After a chilly hike around the falls, we’re fortified by an obligatory bowl of kjötsúpa for lunch. This traditional Icelandic soup is made from a hearty combination of simple ingredients brimming of place — cabbage, carrots, potatoes and rutabaga, simmered with an inexpensive cut of lamb. Even more of a discovery was the deliciously creamy, bright yellow Icelandic butter that accompanied our rolls.

Feeling sleepy after lunch, we almost sat out this part of the trip to Geysir. Joining the crowds to watch steam come out of the ground seemed, well, silly. 

True to its name, the geyser Strokkur churned away, then rewarded our patience by erupting not once, but several times. It was hard not to take childish delight in this impressive gush of energy.

The human scale of Skálholt was a welcome change from the overwhelming beauty of the land around us. It served as the ancient seat of Icelandic Bishops, and, as with Alþingi, is of cultural and historical significance. The cathedral’s has been rebuilt in modern times, and a plainer chapel sits in its shadow, allowing a closer view of vernacular construction using layers of insulating sod and volcanic rock.

Conversation turned towards Hekla, a nearby volcano and one of Iceland’s most active, and Eyjafjallajökull, a little further south and which erupted in 2010 — both constant reminders of the land’s origins and the power of nature.

The tour found itself ahead of schedule, and we found we had time for some extra sights. First, Kerið (above), a volcanic crater lake in Grimsnes, and part of Iceland’s Western Volcanic Zone.

Then the waterfall, Faxi (below), which means “mane.” At the far left, a salmon ladder is built into the very edge of the falls. Since sea fishing for Atlantic salmon is not permitted, it’s highly sought-after as a fresh-water fish.

The geothermal power plant, Hellisheiði, is our final stop. Iceland is proud of leading the world in harnessing this abundant source of renewable energy, and rightly so. As the largest plant in the country, this highly efficient station is run by a crew of 18 during the week, and only 2 employees on the week-ends. 

Heading back to Reykjavik, we’re mesmerized by the passing grey-green landscape of lichen-covered lava fields. Also known as Icelandic moss, this native lichen can be found in teas, used as a seasoning, and to amend flour for baking during hard times.

Dinner that night was at Þrír Frakkar, or “3 Overcoats,” a cozy restaurant that’s the favorite of many, including the Icelandic president. The menu features traditional ingredients, and we sampled such Icelandic specialties as “Hreindýrapaté með cumberland sósu,” reindeer pate complemented with a fruity Cumberland sauce (above, left), and “Gratineraður Plokkfiskur með rúgbrauði,” or fish hash spiked with a beguiling hint of curry, draped over a bed of sliced potatoes, napped in béchamel, and served with black bread, a near cousin of New England Brown Bread.

Upon finding out that it was my first time in-country, the table next to ours insisted on sharing their order of Hákarl, or fermented shark, and bought us shots of Brennivín to wash it down with. The shark was as expected, chewy, and with a distinctive after-taste of ammonia. The Brennivín, notoriously nicknamed “Black Death,” is similar to Aquavit or vodka. This Icelandic version of schnapps is steeped with botanicals such as caraway, cumin and angelica, giving it  a haunting and somewhat addicting flavor — Skál!

As we walked back to our hotel sometime after 10, the sun was beginning to set and cast a glow on the city. The day ended with a delightful find — a matching red car parked serendipitously in front of the little red house across the street from us. 

Resources
• Iceland Excursions: The Golden Circle
• Þingvellir National Park
• Gullfoss
• Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant
• Þrír Frakkar
• Reykyavik, Part 1: Icelandic Daze
• Reykjavik, Part 3: Settlement Life
• Reykjavik, Part 4: Cod Wars and Hot Dogs

I awoke just in time to see Greenland outside my window. We were on a flight to Reykjavik, and the Mercator maps hadn’t prepared me for how close to the arctic circle we’d be traveling. From Boston to Iceland, I’d assumed our path would be completely over water, and listened for the instructions on evacuating at sea.

Most of it was in Icelandic, of course. The only word I learned before leaving was takk, or “thanks.” Spending a mostly sleepless flight staring at the back of the seat in front of me did nothing to increase my vocabulary. We’d left Boston at 9:30 the night before, to arrive five hours later at 6:30 in the morning. This would be my first trip to Iceland, the Gardener’s third, and I was thrilled at the chance to visit. 

I felt like Dorothy arriving in Oz, except in reverse. At home, things were greening. Here, barely so.

From the Keflavik airport, a shuttle bus brought us into town, where a modern day Viking oversees the station. The Hotel Holt is within walking distance and on a quiet residential street. Behind the International-style cinder block facade, we discover a trove of mid-century modern.

The hotel dates back to 1965 much of its retro glamour remains, despite several renovations. On display throughout the hotel is the Holt’s notable Icelandic art collection. Including prints, drawings, paintings and sculpture, it’s the largest privately owned collection in Iceland. 

After checking in, we breakfasted on skyr, the Icelandic yogurt, marinated herring and rúgbrauð, a dark rye bread, then set off to explore the neighborhood. 

Our first destination was the Lutheran church, Hallgrímskirkja, prominently situated on the highest point in Reykyavik. Except for the stained glass doors to the nave, there’s little embellishment. 

The light-filled interior is as austere as the exterior, and a sizable organ dominates the space. 

What we really came for was the view from the steeple. Unusual for Reykjavik, the day was sunny and clear, though extremely windy, a more common occurrence. We lingered as long as we could, taking in the city, surrounding sea, and snow-capped peaks, then retreated back down into the street.

By mid-afternoon we were ready for a snack, and ducked into the cafe Mokka Kaffi. We took a look around and ordered what everyone else seemed to be having: waffles and, instead of hot chocolate, a cup of cappuccino. We watched how the locals do it — tear off a piece of warm waffle, and slather it with a dab of jam and a dollop of whipped cream. I was already smitten with Iceland and that first bite sealed the deal.

Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped off at a grocery store to pick up some skyr. English is widely spoken, however, most of the food packaging was in Icelandic only. Without a translation, what was unidentifiable was made even more so.

After a much needed nap, we headed to Icelandic Fish & Chips down by the harbor for an easy, casual dinner. 

After our experience in the grocery store, it was a relief to find the menu in English. The specialty of this organic bistro is a rotating list of freshly caught fish, fried in a crunchy spelt batter. Today’s choices were ling, cod or pollock; prices shown are in krónur, the Icelandic currency. 

We ordered a couple of glasses of Egils Gull lager, and had the fried ling and crispy, oven roasted potatoes served with skyr tartar sauce, and an order of garlic roasted langoustine tails. After the long travel day, the salad was particularly welcome nourishment.

We finished dinner around 9:30, with plenty of daylight left to stroll around the harbor and take in the northern evening.

We came across this building made of two shipping containers, painted a bright red and housing a bike rental agency.

As a bookend to our walk — this little red house across from our hotel, a figurine of Charlie Chaplin sits in the window.

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From the balcony of our hotel at 10:30 pm, shortly after sunset. It was as if night never came, the light just gradually deepened to a dark ultramarine, then returned around 4 am. We made sure to close the dark-out drapes the next night.

Resources
• Gray Line Iceland – Airport Express
• Hotel Holt
• Hallgrímskirkja
• Mokka Kaffi
• Icelandic Fish & Chips
• Reykjavik, Part 2: The Golden Circle
• Reykjavik, Part 3: Settlement Life
• Reykjavik, Part 4: Cod Wars and Hot Dogs